View Full Version : T-PRO not showing proper afr, or any at all
05-24-2010, 05:08 PM
The other day AFR worked fine, and showed on the Translator pro and the tuner pro (lap top)and all of a sudden its quit working. Moved the LC-1 to the passenger fender and re-routed and recalibrated the heater and sensor.
showed up for a second, some crazy #s went up to 22 then back down to 7.35 for a minute then -- on the sensor monitor screen.
Took my 87 Fluke put it on mv and idling it idles with 13.9 mv and holds. Then it goes to 13.0 on the meter meaning my AFR is that on the wide band reading at the purple ground and orange sensor connector.
Nothing wrong with the wideband, inputs correct but monitor screen is not. Problem?
Ive tried other settings the same thing put the afr source back to Lc-1 same routine, worked fine a week ago and before but now i have to disable my PT , and WOT tracking until this get sorted out. help.
05-24-2010, 05:55 PM
the LC1 output should be 0.0v for 7.3:1 and 5.0v for 22.3:1
So you don't want/need the Fluke set to Mv, lock the range into volts.
The Fluke should match the O2V showing on the Pro sensor monitor screen.
Did you recalibrate the sensor with it exposed to free air?
Any error codes from the LC1?
Have you tried another sensor?
05-24-2010, 10:03 PM
Ok the 14 .9 actually means .014 volts or .010 volts (fluctuates) on the 02 sensor monitor page and also the fluke reads the same.
But the AFR on the same page says -- shouldn't it say 7.3 or something, why --?
Now when i do the recalibration it does got to 22 AFR for a second or two and 02/Fluke goes to 5.00v then the AFR act like its fighting to get to 14 range then blanks out back to -- on the AFR selection. The 02/Fluke goes back to .10v or .13v and holds.
coolant temp 170*
Sensor is less than 4wks or so old , No race gas. could it be the LC1 controller plug pack? I would still figure what ever it should read and stay on the T-PRO monitor page, if I'm getting it at the input wires.?
LED doesnt work to see any trouble codes , I do know the voltage drop across a silicone diode is .6v, the way i did it last time was I would have to use the diode checker on the meter to count the flashes/ or (.6v) in this case. And read the codes if any.
I've recalibrated the heater and free air sensor several times. I'll try it once more after checking the codes.
05-24-2010, 10:32 PM
not sure why your LED is not working, I don't know if using the diode check feature of the Fluke will let you check troublecodes.
It sounds like the LC1 is not working, or the sensor is bad. Not sure.
It sounds like its connected properly.
05-25-2010, 07:31 AM
Clark, where was the lc-1's controller prior to relocating?
Have you logged onto the lc-1 and checked the scale for analog 2?
05-25-2010, 05:40 PM
[QUOTE=TurboBob]not sure why your LED is not working, I don't know if using the diode check feature of the Fluke will let you check troublecodes.
Sure you can, just put it on diode checker it should read whatever voltage the diode out puts. its either .6 for a diode but for a Light Emitting Diode will put out about 1.1 - 3.0 volts. In that range,If you don't have an L.e.d the meter will work then. Im getting 1.4v across the cathode/anode wires. Im getting 8 flashes after the warm up, so there is my problem.... I've done the recalibration 3 times so according to the manual its not a timing sequence, or heater calibration problem the other only fault code says BAD sensor?? So i guess that's what it is..:confused: Its only a few months old.
The only thing i can see is, with my car and the FAST wb meter I have to cut it on and let the sensor warm up before I start the car.
With my brothers car (which he gave me the money to buy this last sensor) I haven't been letting it warm up I just crank and let the engine warm up and go. Would that mess up the Lc-1 sensor, so fast?
Rick analog 2 is for narrow band correct?(yellow wire). havent checked outputs of it.
Previous location of LC-1 was about 9" below the coil pack resting on top of the tranny's bell housing. Did notice that it was pretty WARM after i decided to move it after the car was shut off. Hope its not burned up, If the ignition wires didn't get it the block gets pretty hot back there , been back there for YEARS and no problem even though the car wasn't driven that much. Wasn't so bad during this winter but now summers in , sheesh.
My whole thing is I figure the Maft-pro would still read something even if the readings were wrong being that i had voltage at the input connection of the purple/orange wire. Even if it was Lo voltage (.13-.14 idle) and not do the blink out -- thingy seems it would stay 7.35 volts etc.
I'll just try another sensor and see. wish i could borrow someones LC-1, or they borrow my sensor to be sure of which one to get . the Lc's
$144 the sensor around $70. But according to the flash codes its the sensor, I didn't see one for the Lc-1 being bad?. Thnks guys i'll keep ya posted. Getting an l.e.d, tomorrow.
05-25-2010, 09:20 PM
I never let my sensor warm up, I just get in, crank it up, and go.
I have had an LC1 for many years, its located over by the AC Receiver/Dryer.
The Pro displays --- if the wideband is stuck at the end of its range for too long. This way, the wideband tracking will shut off and not try to track to a defective wideband signal.
05-25-2010, 09:46 PM
OK, thanks thats where mine is now by the ac/drier.
Funny thing is according to the Led , parked and as i go through the recalibration in the end it finally just keeps doing the 8 blinks on the error code.
But once I crank the car the Led stays on as if it correct even when I see it's not.
Anyone wanna take a chance on checking my sensor out with their Lc-1 to see if it works and calibrates with their unit, before i buy another one? I'll mail it..
Brother did tell me he ran a tank of c-16 with that sensor. But I wouldn't have thought that would hurt it, original sensor lasted longer before with more. Maybe this was a weak sensor.
Thats reassuring on the wb tracking if dwelling out of its range for too long.:)
I recalibrate like this:
1) switch on for 10 secs. with the sensor unplugged from the lc-1 then back off.
2) connect sensor, then switch on for 2 min. with it out of down pipe.
3) after the 2min are up I then press the cal button. for 3 sec. then switch off and put sensor back in the downpipe.
Then I'm done at least thats the way I read it.
05-27-2010, 08:57 AM
Clark, do you have the communication cable and the cd that came with the lc-1? Best thing to do is log onto the lc-1 controller and see whats really going on.
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